Friday, 16 December 2011

The Renaissance come to Trinidad


 The Renaissance was the European era between the 14th and 17th centuries, when art, literature, and the ideas of ancient Greece were discovered again and widely studied, causing a rebirth of activity in all these things. During that time The authority of kings, emperors, popes and dukes were overcome through the Reformation, through the farmers' insurrections, and through the idea of nationalism, re-directing thinking and feeling after the Middle Ages. Based on the ideals and aesthetics of pre-Christian times, the re-orientation towards the good, the true and the beautiful leads art and sciences to new hights. Europeans started to see themselves as freed from the fetters of the church, and went to take possession of far-away parts of the earth in brave adventures.

Some significant people of the time:
Kopernikus, Kepler, German scientists
Paracelsus, Swiss physician and researcher
Jakob Fugger, German tradesman
Sinan, Turkish architect
Tizian, Raffael, da Vinci, Michelangelo, Italian painters
Columbus, Italian discoverer
Dürer, German painter
Riemenschneider, German sculpturer
Shakepeare, Bacon, English poets
Calvin, Zwingli, Swiss reformers
Luther, German reformer
Melanchton, German religious philosopher
Cervantes, Spanish poet
El Greco, Spanish painter
Galilei, Italian scientist
Erasmus, Dutch scientist
Münzer, German freedom fighter


Christopher Columbus

The year 2011 AD presents an unparalleled opportunity for us to mount the cockpit of history and with a pilot’s eye gaze out upon the distant horizons of our historical experience. This historical experience, for those of us who live in the west, is relatively short, commencing as it does a mere 500 years ago. Some, in looking back, see only the start of an era of imperialist brutality and ecological degradation. Another point of view perceives with pleasure the commencement of an age of freedom and the divers pathways that progress has carved on the landscapes of the New World.
In 1992, which people commemorated as the “Columbus Quincentenary”, the point of view of some native Americans caught the ear of scholars, political activists and Black Awareness groups. They were offended by the idea that Columbus should have “discovered” the New World, a view that was adopted by many in the Caribbean as well. Even if their plight did not really change anything in the role that Columbus played as a historical figure, it must be seen as a testament to freedom and progress that the voices of those objectors were heard.
Anniversaries are very important in that they give an occasion to re-evaluate history. In not rallying around anniversaries, such as for example the 100th anniversary of the annexation of Tobago to Trinidad, to pick just one instance, those important occasions are wasted, and a fossilised status quo is maintained.
In the case of Columbus, the objectors negated the achievements of him as a great explorer and put his motives and consequences into opprobrium. This is understandable from their perspective, since in the aftermath of the Admiral’s coming to the Americas, their culture got nearly completely wiped out and African slavery was introduced.
However, it is important to put events and personalities of former times into their proper historical context. To belittle the past is a vice of those who seek to aggrandise themselves in the present, without having achieved greatness. As Anne Rice puts it in her “Vittorio”, a very insightful fictional book about the Florentine Renaissance, “Those who don’t do anything great, find suspect anything that is not in a perpetual state of disintegration”. This is to a considerable extent a problem of the so-called Third World, where poverty keeps many people from thriving and achieving greatness for themselves. To stay with the example of Columbus, who came to this island of ours 503 years ago, let us look at what this Admiral of the Ocean Sea really achieved in the context of his times, which was really the beginning of modernity in the western world: the Renaissance.
Dr. Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, historian, writes:
“The significance of his [Columbus’] Atlantic crossing has been belittled and denied. Yet, bearing in mind the resources of 1492, the opening of reliable routes, both ways across the Atlantic, had a permanent transforming effect on the world. No single event contributed so much towards making our unified world of today different from that of antiquity and that of the Middle Ages, which were composed of discrete patches like a decayed mosaic.”
Christopher Columbus, then, can be commemorated as the discoverer of these reliable routes in the age of the sailing ship. He found a way to use cutting-edge technology of the time to its fullest potential. In fact, it was on his second voyage to the west that he concretised the ideal route, which led south-west from the Canary Islands in the mid-Atlantic to the Lesser Antilles, and on his way back to exit north from the West Indies to catch the westerly winds. These journeys from the old world to the new forged a significant link that has stood the test of time. But much more than that, the vast populated middle region of the world, stretching from the Americas to Europe across the caravan routes to Asia, India, and the sea lanes to China now formed a chain. No more would the world be comprised of loosely joined cultures hardly speaking, barely trading with each other. With the advent of the remarkable Genoaese adventurer, we were on the way to the making of the “global village”, the whole breadth of which “could be crossed by cultural contagion, human migration and commercial exchange.”
Columbus’ discoveries of the 1490s, remarkable and special as they were to the Renaissance, belong in fact in the context of an evolving and unfolding, a changing, world.
In this period, paradigm shifts took place in the religious, cultural and economic spheres. Explorers were setting out. Marco Polo had not too long ago returned to Europe, having visited China mostly by foot. Vaso de Gamma and de la Peyrouse would circumnavigate the world in the years ahead, which would be a significant development, since only full circumnavigation offered concrete proof that the world was round! This, in fact, was one of the great goals of Christopher Columbus. He felt sure that if he sailed west into the Atlantic, he would eventually arrive in the east - a great supposition at the time.
Egypt, ancient and obscure, was undoubtedly the original source of all the sciences known to man in olden times. The scientists of Egypt - today referred to as priests - taught the Greeks all they knew. At the time of Columbus and the later circumnavigators, the most important sources of geographical writings were those of the Greeks. The great Aristotle, who lived about 400 years before the birth of Christ, had demonstrated that the world was round. His views were discarded and eventually lost to the medieval Catholic world in western Europe. They were only remembered in Islamic works which were slow to make their way westward.
Another Greek, Pythagoras, born 472 BC., was a product of the mystery schools of Egypt. He too knew that the world was round. Pythagoras, amongst his several proofs, pointed out that the shadow of the earth cast upon the moon during a lunar eclipse was round, demonstrating that the surface of the earth must be round too, from whatever angle one looked at it.
This knowledge led to the belief that it would be possible to reach Asia by sailing westward from Europe. Columbus, in attempting to prove this, operated in the context of great personal bravery: it was not commonly accepted that the earth was indeed round! The value of his “discoveries” is thus to be found in the fact that he proved a scientific fact, that he conquered superstition and stupidity in the people who insisted the world was flat.
This value stands for itself and cannot be debased with the argument that the Americas and the Caribbean had been discovered by people already, that the hemisphere was populated, and that the Scandinavians had “discovered” it in previous centuries.
In analysing history, one has to be careful not to unravel events like an old sweater, and to end up with ends of wool that show nothing of the intricate knitting pattern. To judge Columbus anything other than a superb Renaissance man by arguing that it was because of him that enslaved people from Africa would suffer in the colonies would be to make the sheep responsible for the sweater!

Spanish Conquistadors

In the years immediately following Columbus’ discovery of Trinidad in 1498, the interest of Spain was concentrated on the larger or her new-found possessions to the north. In the earlier years, Trinidad was visited by the ships of those engaged in discovery, who, after taking wood and water, passed on. In time, the beauty and fertility of this island attracted attention. There was also always the prospect for gold. The island was seen as well-populated, thus a source of labour, mostly from the point of view of forced labour amongst the Amerindians. By 1509, Diego Columbus, son of the Admiral and governor of San Domingo, was buying Amerindians from Trinidad for 150 ducats each to work in the pearl diving industry on the island of Cubagua.
With gold ever in mind, the Spanish King directed attention to the exploration of the natural resources of Trinidad. In 1511, he instructed Diego to cease removing slaves from Trinidad and to send men to explore the island for gold. The two caravels dispatched from San Domingo, sailed southward in the blinding heat of May, careful to bypass islands known for the man-eating habits of their inhabitants. With great trepidation, they put a boat ashore at the island of Redonda, off the coast of Montserrat. Her volcano was idly smoking. The sailors’ intent was to capture and kill the giant turtles nesting there, the meat of which they salted. They set sail once more and touched upon the island of Guadeloupe for water and to rest the crew, before hazarding the next leg of the journey that would bypass the windward islands and take them to the towering cliffs of Trinidad and its port of entry, known as the Boca del Dragon.
Before them lay the great Gulf of Paria, and about their small and somewhat fragile vessels great whales disported, nursing their young and mindlessly enjoying the twilight of their existence.
From the shore, a small suspicious gathering of Amerindians saw for the third or fourth time these strange craft appear as if by magic. In the waters, just off their village that they called place of the silk cotton trees because of the giant trees that came down from the mountains to the mangrove coast. Later, the Spaniards would pronounce that turn of phrase as “Cumucurapo”, to be remembered hundreds of years later as Mucurapo.
Captain Roderigo de Bastidas brought his men ashore. They were sweating in their heavy armor and European clothes. Banners were flying, bearing the arms of Spain and depictions of the Virgin of Compostela. They made their way through the tangle of mangrove into the savannah lands studded with great trees, that would many centuries later be called Woodbrook, and whose streets would be decorated with the playful names of the children of Johann Benjamin Gottlieb Siegert, a German who found some of South America’s real riches in the plants that grow there, concocting herbs and tree bark into his famous Angostura Bitters.
The expedition followed the almost dry riverbed of the Rio Santa Anna, into the hills, to an area known as Ariapita. The Carib warriors moved purposely forward, their naked bodies painted bright red with roocoo against the mosquitoes. In the distance could be heard the roar of a waterfall. In the trees above, the bellbirds called. In the brilliant sunlight, the high cliffs seemed indeed to sparkle with a golden light. Golden nuggets appeared to protrude from the rock’s face, and the Spaniards, excited by their find, scrambled up the hillside. The mountain pools below them reflected in perfect union the circle of the sky.
The search for gold in Trinidad was not successful. Probably the Amerindians showed the Spaniards the deposits of marcasite, fool’s gold, and it was not long before expectations in this direction were proved unjustified.

Don Antonio Sedeño

Interest in Trinidad thereupon lapsed, except as a place for enslaving Indians to be sold in other islands until 1520, in which year, on December 15th to be exact, the King of Spain granted the conquest and pacification of the island to Don Antonio Sedeño, the contador of San Juan, Porto Rico. Sedeño was named governor and captain general. Don Antonio was thus Trinidad’s first governor. He was a tough soldier who had made adventure his life’s work. Shortly after his appointment to the Indies, his colleagues were sending adverse reports about Sedeño, and in 1518, he was suspended from office and imprisoned on the allegation of having seduced a very young girl from a convent in Porto Rico.
Allegedly, Sedeño had a “turbulent nature”. Put into prison for the offense, he set it on fire and escaped aboard a ship leaving the port. Diego Columbus had Sedeño acquitted and reinstated after an investigation.
The following year saw him back in jail, this time for making free with His Majesty’s revenue. He was said to have “put his hands deeply into His Majesty’s funds” with disturbing the island and fermenting factious disorders. He was sentenced to pay 5000 pesos. The index of papers of the Council of the Indies show Don Antonio in and out of jail. Such is the record of the man who aspired to conquer and pacify the island of Trinidad!
His brother officers were glad to see him go. To the authorities in Spain, he was a man of wealth with resources suitable for the conquest of Trinidad, a man possessed of an undoubted courage - exactly the qualities of leadership well suited to a conquistador!
When one thinks of conquistadors, the names of Cortés and Pizzaro come to mind, iron-clad men who went to Mexico and Peru. Men who burned their ships on the beaches of the New World and resolutely set out to conquer and in fact destroy civilisations that were thousands of years old. What those rough-edged, ignorant Spaniards mindlessly destroyed were in fact precious records of those civilisations’ knowledge of precessional astronomy, mathematics and geometry. Their vast libraries were annihilated, and the information of the “Gods coming to earth” was forever lost. Probably, the loss of their archives was more than anything else the undoing of the Aztec and Inca civilisations. Montezuma, emperor of the Mexicans, really believed that Hernando Cortés was the God prophesied to return.
The Spaniards at that time had come out of a terrible war for the reconquest of Spain. Generations of an aristocratic knightly Catholic class had clashed with the flower of Islamic warrior culture. Victorious against the ‘infidel’, the Catholics destroyed the high culture established by the Moors in Europe and proceeded to cross the Atlantic to wipe out another.
Trinidad received its first conquistador, Don Antonio Sedeño, in 1531. The frail caravels sailed for the Indies from the port town of San Lucar de Barrameda in Spain, carrying 70 men and some horses. He had a fortunate and successful crossing, and as was the custom, made landfall at the south east corner of the island, just about where the gas pipelines now come out of the Atlantic ocean on Galeota Point. He proceeded along the south coast, past Moruga, to enter the Gulf of Paria by the Serpent’s Mouth, and sailed straight north to seek for the Indian Cacique named Turpiari, who was the ruler of the north of Trinidad. These two became friends, and it is said that their relationship endured many decades.
Trinidad was hard for Sedeño to handle. He had arrived at a time when a war of Amerindian conquest was being waged between rival tribes of Caribs. He was caught in the primitive politics of the day, and beset by Carib warriors who were not afraid to die for their island. They attacked the Spaniards again and again, destroying Sedeno’s  stockade at Mucurapo in a series of bloody battles. Their bravery and commitment should be known and remembered with the same respect as the Apache braves: Geronemo, Crazy Horse and Little Bear. These were in fact the first heroes of Trinidad. They fought and died for this island, which they knew as Iere, the Land of the Hummingbird.
It is because of the valor of the tribal people that the hummingbird, now a national symbol, is in the centre of the cap badge and buttons of both the Trinidadian police force and the regiment, and is, in fact, saluted with respect.
Don Antonio did not conquer Trinidad. He died in the high forest of the province of Meta on the mainland, organising yet another attempt to colonise Trinidad. He had left his fortune behind in Spain and had come out with his ambition and his youth to make a fortune. He had earned the friendship and the respect of the caciques throughout many difficult years - no mean feat in those times - a success which should give him a notable place in the ranks of the conquistadors.
Today, if  you visit President’s House, there is a plaque at the entrance bearing the  names of Trinidad and Tobago’s governors. His is the very first.

Who celebrated Carnival?

Carnival in Trinidad has grown out of the collective experience of all people who have come to this island from Spanish times, prior to 1797, on through to the present day. 

Carnival is essentially Roman Catholic in origin. Its earliest participants must have been the Spanish settlers who, in isolation, living in the little hamlets bearing beautiful names like San José de Oruna and Puerto de los Hispanioles, would have danced the medieval “burroquete” in the muddy streets accompanied by guitar, fiddle and drum. The local Amerindians must have been looking on in amazement.

 Hardly drawing a crowd, the pre-Lenten fiesta would have been at most a dozen or so people dressed in rags, alpagattas and battered straw hats. The priests, the Governor, the chief of police, and of course the donkey costumes into which a man or boy got to prance about, waving the little ass’ head from side to side, making mincing steps in a parody of riding merrily. The burroquete mas is ancient, having its origins in north Africa and finding itself marooned in Spain after the withdrawal of the Moors in the 1490s. Eventually, it was brought to the New World.  

In the period before 1783, before the influence of the French and Africans, it has been suggested that the population was as follows:

Spanish white - 126
Coloured - 245
Slaves - 310
Amerindians (Carib) - 2000 
 
With the Cedula of Population of 1783, a dramatic change took place.  The island, though a Spanish colony, received a French population. These French, made up largely of the petit noblesse of France’s southern provinces, brought with them many slaves. They came mostly from Dominica, St. Vincent, Martinique and Grenada. Amongst them were a great number of people of colour, who were not enslaved. Those were the descendants of earlier French settlers and African slaves. The institution of slavery was then seen by Europeans and Africans, by Christians and Muslims, as an economic reality. It meant that these free black people who came to Trinidad possessed slaves as well.  
 
The population of Trinidad just before the British conquest in 1797 was as follows:
Spanish white: 150
Spanish coloured: 200
Africans enslaved: 300
Amerindians: 1127
French white: 2250
French coloured: 4700
African enslaved: 9700
 
Being almost entirely Catholic in their faith, the French in Trinidad just like the Spaniards observed Lent and celebrated Carnival. It is said that the French combined an aristocratic tradition and their natural tendency to “contagious gaiety, brilliant verbal sally and comic buffoonery” in their version of Carnival. This gave the festival a different flair altogether. Historians say that this period of Trinidad’s development, that is, the 1790s, was marked by a certain degree of racial ease. In as much as both the whites and the free coloureds were sharing the frontier town experience, having freshly immigrated, there was an atmosphere of modest mingling. In fact, there was a lot of so-called ‘miscegenation’ taking place! It was only with the advent of the British conquerors that this changed. 
 
Carnival celebrations of the turn of the 19th century were enjoyed by both groups of the population. But what of the several thousand slaves?
 
Port of Spain had then a large slave population which acted as domestics. What of the hundreds of slaves who moved about on their masters’ business, as messengers, sailors, wagon drivers, etc.? According to tradition, they took no part in Carnival. A memory by Ofuba the chantwell, a slave who sang “Neg deye polla” has been preserved, picturing a slave peeping from behind the door at the Carnival fête of the French masters (“Nègre derrière la porte”).
 
By the 1820s, during Governor Woodford’s term, the free persons of colour were subjected to very stringent regulations, and although it was not forbidden to wear masks, they were compelled to keep to themselves and never presumed to join the amusements of the privileged class.
 
The Caribs were moving in their own world, their own time and space. Their rapidly diminishing share in the population did not share in the realities of the European and African immigrants, who in turn may not have noticed them particularly.  
 
A description of a Carnival ball has come down to us. Mrs. Bruce’s ball in 1831 was attended by “the beauty and fashion of Port of Spain, composing a motley assemblage of elegantly dressed ladies, largely Swiss damsels, French marquises, English noblemen, grooms, postillions, priests and friars” (the latter costumes have been banned since then). The French also disguised as their servants and slaves, their husbands and mistresses. One costume was the graceful and costly one of the “mulatresse” of the time, whilst gentlemen adopted that of the “nègres du jardin” (in Patois ‘neg jardin’) or field  labourer. In that costume the gentleman often figured in the “bamboola” in the “giouba” and in the “calinda”, all popular local dance steps of the era. 
 
The French would often unite in bands, their faces blackened with soot, representing different estates. Lionel Fraser, who wrote a history of Trinidad, relates:
“In the days of slavery, whenever a fire broke out upon an estate, the slaves of the surrounding properties were immediately mustered and marched to the spot, horns and shells were blown to collect them and the gangs were followed by drivers cracking their whips and urging them with cries and blows to their work. After emancipation, the negroes began to represent this scene as a kind of commemoration of the change in their condition and the procession of ‘cannes brulées’ used to take place on the night of the 1st of August, the date of emancipation.” 
 
In later years, the practice of cannes brulées was used at a different time of year to inaugurate Carnival. With emancipation, social life was altered between the free black people and the slaves. The ancient lines of demarcation between them as classes were obliterated. Fraser remarks:
“As a natural consequence, the Carnival degenerated into a noisy and disorderly amusement of the lower classes. The earliest record of an attempt to regulate or control Carnival appears in 1833. An attempt was made by Mr. Peake (assistant to the chief of police) to check the shameful violation of the Sabbath by the lower order of the population who are accustomed about this time of year to wear masks and created disturbances on a Sunday.” 
 
Peake arrested several people. On returning to his home, he found that all his windows had been broken. 

Thursday, 15 December 2011

Electricity

 The first time the topic of electricity was ever raised in public in Trinidad, was on the 8th November 1850. This is recorded in José Bod's "Trinidadiana". A small assembly of refined, bespectacled, bearded and well-dressed men met at the Juteau Hall on upper Duke Street, Port of Spain, to listen to a lecture delivered by Dr. Arthur Jennings Humphrey on the subject of electricity and magnetism. A somewhat esoteric subject for the time! Humphrey would have spoken of Benjamin Franklin, one of the more splendid examples of the Age of Enlightenment, a famous American statesman and scientist. Franklin was the 15th child of a family of 17, born in Boston in 1706, who in 1746 commenced his famous researches in electricity. He brought out fully the distinction between positive and negative electricity, proved that lightning and electricity are identical and suggested that buildings may be protected by lightning conductors.
Humphrey may have told his enthralled audience of the Scottish engineer James Watt. Born in 1736, Watt was the first person to talk about horsepower. The Watt, a unit of power, is named after him. Watt described the steam locomotive in one of his patents and obtained patents for the sun and planet motion, the expansion principle, the double engine, the parallel motion, a smokeless furnace and the governor. James Watt died in 1819.
Another remarkable man of the Age of Enlightenment was the Italian nobleman Count Alessandro Giuseppe Anastasio Volta. Volta was born in Como in 1745. He was a physicist and the inventor of the electric battery. He developed the theory of electric current and discovered the electric decomposition of water, the electrophorus, and electroscope, and made investigations on heat and gases. His name is given to the unit of electrical potential difference, the Volt.
Humphrey’s audience contained perhaps many people of French descent. Those would have warmed to the orator’s mention of André Marie Ampère, the French mathematician and physicist, whose name was given to the basic unit of electric current (ampere or amp). Born in Lyon in 1775, he had a distinguished academic career and laid the foundations of the science of electrodynamics through his theoretical and experimental work of the magnetic effects of electric currents.
The subject of magnetism, particularly “animal magnetism”, was one that bordered on the occult in that hazy world between science and alchemy. Franz Anton Mesmer, born in 1734 near Konstanz, studied and practiced medicine in Vienna. About 1777, and after dissecting hundreds of innocent frogs, he began to develop the idea that there exists a power which he called animal magnetism. He travelled to France, where in collaboration with another medical doctor by the name of Jean Valleton de Boissière, he perfected his theory. To this day, Mesmerism or to mesmerise means to cast a spell on a person or hypnotise them. Anton Mesmer used magnetised iron rods to heal hundreds of people of a range of ailments. He in fact refused to sell his secret for £20,000!
At this point, Humphrey’s audience hung on to his every word. The great-grandson of that Dr. de Boissière, himself a doctor, and many of his other descendants lived in this island. The ideas expressed by this man of vision were remarkable, even fantastic. There was a sense of the young French novelist Jules Verne and his futuristic writing about Dr. Humphrey. As the evening closed and the oil lamps grew dim in their chimneys, his small audience dispersed. Outside, the huge full moon was rising over the Laventille hills. The little town of Port of Spain was already half asleep, after all, it was close upon 9 o’clock. Did the people of the audience imagine what impact electricity would have on the lives of their children and grand children?

Wednesday, 14 December 2011

African Songs to Calypso

When the African slaves began to arrive in small quantities, that is, before the French people brought them in greater numbers in the 1780’s, they had found a form of singing. They took up local songs and of course sang their own songs too. Sampson says “they introduced more pep, more vigour, more liveliness and more animation”.
Mitto Sampson was able to draw from the memories of “old timers”, such as famous sportscaster Ken Laughlin’s father and Tony de Boissière, who knew a lot about the French Creole tradition of the origins of calypso.
Long ago, in the 1780s, a certain Frenchman by the name of Begorrat had a big estate in Diego Martin. There were many caves up in the mountains, and “Lawa” (King) Begorrat used to hold court in one of them, “to which he would adjourn with his favourite slaves and guests on occasions and indulge in a variety of entertainments,” says Mitto. Well, that is putting it mildly!
In Begorrat’s courtly cave would be his African slave singers of “cariso” or “caiso”, which were usually sung ex temporare and were of a flattering nature, satirical or directed against unpopular neighbours or members of the plantation community, or else they were “mepris”, a term given to a war of insults waged between two or more expert singers.
Gros Jean, or Big John, was a slave belonging to the Begorrat family. He was the first of these bards or “chantwells” to be appointed master of caiso or “Maît Caiso”.
Begorrat was a man who had many wives. Whenever he was vexed, the women would send for Gros Jean to sing him back to serenity. Begorrat, it is said, liked to think of himself as a monster, pitiless, destructive, and terrifying. A patois song he liked went like this:

Begorrat est diab’la, c’est un
Begorrat est diab’la, c’est deux
Begorrat for, cruel et mauvais
Begorrat roi-la dans son pays.

Gros Jean and Begorrat had a close relationship, so close that one of the wives of Begorrat poisoned Gros Jean. It is said that when Begorrat heard the news of his death, he first fainted, then raged and cursed, then swore. He did not eat for three days. He had Gros Jean’s body wrapped in a flaming red cloth and put a gold cross on his forehead, and buried him in the family grave on the estate. Another chantwell on the estate sang:

Gros Jean, you have a voice like thunder
Your voice can raise my mother from the dead.

So So also had a real good voice and succeeded Grow Jean as Maît Caiso. Begorrat discovered him and promoted him to this high position. It was said of him that he had a taste for “wrinkled and decrepit women ... and making his house a cross between a hospital and a house of refuge”. Thus, bringing into the vocabulary of Patois the word “so so” for one who seeks lovers amongst the aged, he was known to be a good, generous and sometimes quite religious man. Begorrat had him sing terrible songs against his enemies, and in so doing met his death in a terrible manner that may not be described in theses pages. It is said that one of his murderers confessed on his deathbed, naming two others, Fouchet and Dardaine, who in turn were tortured to death in revenge.
The third great calypsonain that we know about is Papa Cochon (Daddy Pig). He is remembered perhaps more as a notorious obeah man. He had the power of finding gold.  There was quite a quantity of buried treasure around Trinidad in the 1800s. People who had money, gold, silver, precious stones, would bury it in times of danger or if they had to go away for a while. Then, for various reasons, they would leave it. Sometimes they were killed or died otherwise. Papa Cochon, through his dreaming ability, is reported to have discovered large quantities of pirate gold for his masters on Manzanilla Beach and at Mucurapo. He whistled, and the birds flew to him. He prayed snakes to death and mad dogs grew docile in his presence. He is reputed to have saved the lives of many. He would concoct a potion made from the blood of a young female slave, the brain of a black cat, sea water and two dead crapauds. He could transfer the suffering from one person to another. While preparing for his obeah work, he ate snakes and dogs, slept in graveyards, allegedly to hold meetings with the dead. It is thought that he belonged to Henri “Diable” Boissière. When they came to Begorrat’s court to sing against rival chantwells, Begorrat always got predictions from Papa Cochon. One day, Papa Cochon was invited to sing at the estate of a certain French family whose name begins with “L”, and was never seen again. Rumours had it that he had been locked up in an underground room and starved to death.
On this manner ended the life of the third great calypsonian, Papa Cochon, arch gossiper and scandal monger, impostor and chantwell. It was said by Mitto Sampson that his scarlet life hung like a black cloud over the period of slavery.
The fourth famous chantwell, Danois (the Dane), was not a slave. He may have come from the Virgin Islands. We are now in the 1850s, and from then on, many chantwell’s names have come down to us. Possum, son of the slave Ofuba, Hannibal the Mulatto, Surisima the Carib, of whom we spoke earlier, and Cedric le Blanc, the famous white calypsonian. Picong was always on the rough side. Zandolie, for example, sang:

Hannibal, your mother was a prostitute
I am singing the truth.
Hannibal was born in jail.

Hannibal was the mulatto son of Soucoush Piwi and an African carterman. He enjoyed poking fun at black people. He himself was a dandified, fair-skinned man, with slicked-down hair, two-toned shoes, black walking stick with a silver handle, pin-striped suits and ruffled shirts. He sang:

Black and black make pure devil
Black and white make half angel.

Outside of the thin veneer of Victorian respectability, mostly imposed by the English upon themselves, Trinidad’s creole life was one of considerable social disorder. Rumours would sweep the town like the one of the nun and the leper.

Black, white and mixed-race people lived in an ongoing near orgy of six, crime, rum and ribald songs. This was placed against a highly developed sense of sin which as Catholics they cherished. All this had evolved in Trinidad from the heritage of slave dancing societies, and the relationships between masters and slaves, which eventually evolved into Carnival bands. One can say that with the arrival of the French planters, the history of Carnival may be divided into four phases, viz slavery, the time right after emancipation, the end of the 19th century and a period from the 1890s to after the First World War. Carnival in slavery days was a white people affair. After emancipation, the ex-slaves took it over, mostly with depictions of burning cane plantations. The end of the 19th century almost saw the end of Carnival, which only survived because of the pressure put upon it by the British authorities who felt sufficiently strong to want to impose their ways. The more they tried to stop it, the more is sprung to life. The advent of the 20th century gave Carnival an even more important audience. The emerging middle class loved it. In the period after the First World War, it was motorized, amplified and participated in by thousand of movie-goers. The transition from the mad old days of bambula and tamboo bamboo was made with the increasing addition of modern musical forms and instruments.
Wire masks imported from as far afield as Austria served to hide the faces of the respectable ladies. Bands were roped off to prevent intruders and eventually ended up on the backs of trucks.



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Burning of Goziria

An Amerindian, in fact a Carib presence, haunts the origins of calypso in Trinidad. Over the last 100 years or so, this presence has been thickly overlaid by an Afro-French veneer, displacing this strand that forms a rich and significant part of the fabric that is part and parcel of our national festival. The story goes like this.

The Caribs had all but faded away from Trinidad by the 1840s. They had been wiped out with the advent of western civilisation and their remnant had retreated to Venezuela. With the arrival of the cocoa planters of the 1870s to the 1890s, they had faded back into the wilderness of the Northern Range and had drifted into urban life. This is where we pick up a little-known story, which Mitto Sampson in his paper on calypso legends recounts.
Jo Jo was the son of Thunderstone, who was the chantwell of a band called the Congo Jockos, that once dominated upper Nelson Street. He was reputed to have lost his wife Cariso Jane to Surisima the Carib, a well-known calypso singer. Jo Jo, in his 90s, told Mitto in 1947 about Surisima the Carib. The word cariso, by which term calypso was known prior to the 1890s, is descended from the Carib term “Carieto,” meaning a joyous song. Surisima was famous also as a folklorist and raconteur. He would be paid by people to come to their homes to tell stories of long ago. He was a wayside historian in the style of the late Jose Ramon Fortune, Harry Pitts and Alfredo Codallo. Whenever he spoke, people gathered.
Jo Jo possessed the Carib tradition. Carietos, he said, could heal the sick with music, embolden the warrior and seduce the beautiful. It is said that during the reign of the cacique Guamatumane in Spanish times (before 1797), singers of carieto were rewarded with special gifts of land, and, apart from the caciques themselves, they also had the most beautiful ladies.
It is related that during the regime of the cacique Guancangari the two great singers were Dioarima, a tall, good-looking, powerful personality, and Casaripo, an “undersized weakling” who had a voice that was capable of making cowards brave, invigorating the poorly and calming the crazy.
Dioarima had two lovely daughters who were watched over day and night. One dark and windy night, a singer hid in the bushes and proceeded to sing several beautiful and hauntingly soulful songs. The songs had a very upsetting effect on the lovely daughters of Dioarima. The singer returned the following night and once again sang his haunting songs. The two girls slipped out into the night and met the singer in the high forest that surrounded the village in which they lived and went with him to Conquerabia (now Port of Spain). The three lived together for many years “in regal splendour”, and Dioarima was never able to get back his daughters.
When the Spaniards came to Trinidad, they heard of these wonderful singers whose voices spurred men to battle even in the face of fearful odds. According to Mitto Sampson, “they used bribery and clever manipulation and finally ambushed the two [singers] through the treachery of the Carib slave-woman Goziria. The singers were subjected to unspeakable tortures, and molten lead was poured down their throats.”
After Casaripo and Dioarima had been killed, the power of the Caribs began to fade in Trinidad until they were eventually conquered by the Spanish. Guandori, a famous stickman of the 1860s, was the last descendant of the daughters of Dioarima, the fabled singer. He was a great stickman in the tradition of  Tiny Satan, Rocou John and Cutaway Rimboud.
“Surisima himself used to organise a procession of Carib descendants from the city of Port of Spain to the heights of El Chiqueno,” relates Mitto Sampson. “Up in the mountains of the Northern Range, they would make a huge figure of the Carib slave-woman Goziria, the betrayer of their ancestors, and burn this giant figure after much feasting, drinking and singing of obscene songs. The song remembered from those times went:

‘Cazi, cazi, cazi, cazi,
Dende, dende, dende, dariba.’”

Shiffer Brathwaite told Mitto Sampson that his father said that when the people sang this song, they remembered and felt the sorrow experienced by the Caribs for the loss and betrayal of Casaripo and Dioarima.

St. Pierre Volcano Eruption

Early on the morning of the 8th of May 1902 the harbour front at Castries, the main town of the Caribbean island of St. Lucia was lightly touched by a thin drizzle that seemed to appear from a faultless sky. An iron steamer moved slowly into the channel. The sound of her engines was loud against the silence of the still sleeping town. Coming about, her engines stopped, and she let drop her anchor with a clattering roar into the still tepid sea. Her ropes appeared charred, the point burnt from her iron plates. The man at her helm appeared on the point of death, fainting, he clung to her wheel with hands burnt raw. There were on board some twenty-odd men, some were already dead, many were dying. Within minutes the Port Authority launch had come alongside. To the port officers who came aboard the Captain could only whisper “We came from hell.” His ship, “the Rodam”, was the only one to have escaped from the harbour of St. Pierre on the neighbouring island of Martinique, when Mount Pelée erupted.
The destruction of the town of St. Pierre in Martinique was the greatest single natural disaster which we have recorded in the Caribbean, and is reconstructed here from notes given to Dr. Sir Phillip Sherlock by Lately Thomas.
It was during the first week of April of 1902 that Claudette La Parde arranged to meet Charles César du Bochet on the eastern slope of Mount Pelée for the purpose of love-making. It was a clandestine affair. She, a mature matron of the town, he, hardly more than a boy. In the heat of their passion the earth seemed to move and the atmosphere burn; there was a smell of something smoldering and whiff of sulfur and brimstone. They, believing, that their love was the source of these manifestations, felt compelled to ever greater efforts. Later, as the sun slipped into the evening’s cool, they made their way back down to St. Pierre, noticing some vents and smoke holes and an even stronger smell of sulfur. All this was more than a little unusual, for the volcano had been asleep for a very long time. They naturally did not make a report, so there was nothing to alarm the people in the pretty little town of 30,000 souls that lay at the foot of the mountain. The sun had turned the sky to gold, which in turn reflected itself in the roadstead, circled by palm trees and sheltered from the boisterous trade winds by an embrace of low hills.
A couple days later, on April 23rd, there was an earthquake and a rain of cinders. Two days later Mount Pelée threw rocks and ashes in to the air. The mountain seemed restless. Claudette wrote a note to her lover, “Old Pelée is smoking again. Perhaps we started something.” The mountain was active for the first time in fifty years. A party of people who went up the mountain to the Grand Sec, a long dry hollow, found that it had become a lake six hundred yards wide with a cone fifty feet high. At one side, the cone issued a steady stream of hot water.
On the night of May 2nd, as Claudette La Parde paced her fruit gallery, anxiously waiting for her husband to leave for the Mason’s Hall, St. Pierre was shaken by a series of explosions. Flames shot from the volcano in great lightening flashes. The earth heaved with shock after shock. People grew alarmed, yet somehow, life went on all the same. The next day the mountain was quiet. Claudette complained to the baker that there were cinders in the bread!
The following day, fear grew again when news came that the Soufrière in St. Vincent was active. The fields around St. Pierre were beginning to show signs of the mountain’s power. One writer said that the soils, plants and houses were all covered with a grayish snow and that in the countryside there was a strange silence except for the animals which were restless, bleating, neighing and bellowing in despair. On Monday, May 5th, a terrifying thing happened. The sea drew back 300 to 400 yards from the shore, then flooded forward in a great wave and then quickly withdrew. A tsunami! Later the cause became known.
One wall of the Grand Sec, where the hot lake had been formed , collapsed and a torrent of boiling water and mud had rushed down the river bed, burying beneath it the ruins of the old section of the Guerin Sugar Factory at the mouth of the river, entombing Claudette and Charles Cézar where they lay. Their bodies would not be discovered for more than fifty years. The avalanche of boiling mud killed 130 people. The experts of the day concluded that the town was not in danger.
Yet, Wednesday continued to be a day of terror as people left the town in quantities in every possible means of transport. At the same time country folk from the villages and hamlets round about were pouring into St. Pierre for refuge. The local paper ran a headline  “Where else better could one be than in St. Pierre”.
There was one sea captain who thought it was wise to get out. He was an Italian and his boat “Orsolina” was only half laden with cargo. The shippers protested when he said he was going. The Port Authority would not give him clearance and threatened him with arrest. But he set sail and left after telling them “I know nothing of Mt. Pelée, but if  Mt. Vesuvius looked the way your volcano did, I would get out of Naples.” He left with the falling tide, leaving behind 16 ships. The only one to survive was the “Roddam.”
Early on the morning of May 8th there was an eruption at 7:25 am. An explosion which seemed to tear the heavens asunder. A black cloud turned the freshly made day back into night with a blackness so complete that people dropped to their knees, too frightened even to pray - within a few minutes, they were all dead. The earth quaked and buildings stumbled. The heat generated by the all-consuming cloud burnt everything, melting even the elaborate iron railings and causing the lead pipes to become liquid. A boiling rain dell. The inferno, spectacular, drew no description, for everyone was killed. With the streets melted, the town appeared to have slipped into the sea.
Those in Fort de France, the capital of Martinique, waited word from St. Pierre - in vain. At midday, a warship arrived to investigate. The heat prevented anyone from landing until 3 pm. Nothing, nobody was alive, not a tree, not a plant, not a human being. Burning ruins and corpses were everywhere. For three days, the rescue party worked. Only one man had escaped of all the 30,000 inhabitants of the St. Pierre.
If we read this survivor’s story in a novel, we would say that it was not true! Ludgar Sylbaris had been sentenced to imprisonment and had been locked in an subterranean dungeon without windows, with only a narrow grating in the door for ventilation. He was waiting for his breakfast when suddenly it became dark, and hot air mixed with fine ashes entered through the grating of the door and burnt him. He saw no fire, but his body beneath his clothes was bacly burned.
For three days, he kept moaning and calling, until some rescue workers heard him and released him. For several years he was an exhibit in Barnum and Bailey Circus in the United States - the only man who came out of St. Pierre alive.

Trinidad connection?
Martinique's economy was affected by the catastrophe. Several displaced people came to Trinidad, and their descendants live among us.

Tuesday, 6 December 2011

The Rada Community


The movement of the ship was more than he could stand. It overwhelmed the fear, the disorientation and the certainty that his life was now forever altered. The movement of the ship dominated his thinking. It affected him with the terrorising sensation of perpetually dying. The motion of the ship formed the central aspect of an association of ideas that remained with him all his life, whenever he smelled vomit, unwashed bodies, and odours emitted by humans when they are convinced of their own imminent death.
This permanent alteration of his life had occurred without warning. This itself was highly unusual, inasmuch as he was albeit his young age a highly respected member of the society of diviners.
The circumstances leading to his capture by the merchant Ahmed Abdou had arranged themselves as the result of his preoccupation with clandestine encounters with the merchant’s great niece, which had turned into an obsession. The indignity of his capture and subsequent sale to the Portuguese slaver had now placed him in this perilous box, the ship, upon this vast and mindless ocean on a journey of no return. In the midst of never-ending motion, explosions not dissimilar to thunder cracked the sky. The slaver was being attacked by a British Man-o-War! The shackled slaves were marched up onto the heaving deck and with kicks and curses loaded into long boats that were bobbing and spinning upon this ever shifting body of water to be taken to another, even more enormous ship.
Already, the Portuguese slaver was dropping to the stern of the British Man-o-War, seeming smaller by the second on the vast bosom of wetness. The British ship now set its sails for Trinidad.
Several hundred Africans were thus liberated on the high sea by Great Britain during the 1850s, when that country ran a blockade against the Portuguese slave traders. The slave trade had been abolished by the English in 1807, and the slaves had become fully set free in 1838. Now, it became an economic necessity for the British to force other nations to do away with slavery as well, since sugar and other imports from slave territories like Brazil were flooding the market at much cheaper prices than from the British colonies.
Amongst the hapless Africans, one stood out and proceeded to make his mark on the lives of many in Trinidad. He took the name of Robert, or Jean Antoine. He was, however, known as Papa Nannee or Mah Nannee. A significant leader, he created a new home for his tribe, the Rada people, who had found their way to this island. They were in the majority from Dahomey in West Africa (now Benin), and most of them had been liberated from Portuguese slave ships just like himself.
Papa Nannee was not a priest, however. He was a diviner. He had been born at Whydah around the year 1800 and upon arrival on this island, he was sent to work at an estate near to Champs Fleurs. By the 1860s, he had saved sufficient money to purchase lands in the Belmont valley, and there founded a compound dedicated to the worship of Dangbwe, Serpent, God of Dahomey. He named the compound Dangbwe Comme (House).
Nannee possessed an extraordinary knowledge of the supernatural, and as he grew older, was much sought after for his advice and healing powers.
He gathered around him a trained priest and two male ‘voduns’, or people who are possessed by the Gods. The compound created by him in Belmont Valley Road consisted of a chapel, called a vodunkwe, a covered area for dancing and several shrines, one of which was dedicated to Papa Legba and another to Ogun, both deities of the Dahomean people.
Within a few years, the lives of many in the Belmont Valley Road area were touched by  the work of this remarkable good and selfless man. Other African people settled there to be near to him and compounds for Ibos, Congoes and Mandingoes (all African tribes) took root and grew. Newspapers of the day, such as the “Chronicle”, described the Rada people as industrious men and women who saved their money and ran a private bank to provide funds for those in need.
During the 1870s, the colonial authorities felt the need to monitor and in fact put pressure on this group of activists. Charges of obeah and the practice of black magic were brought against members. In one case, Quervee, Papa Nannee’s brother, was convicted of obeah and had been given to 20 strokes for the offense. He appealed and won the case, receiving $10 for each lash in compensation. He was represented by the eminent barrister of the day, Charles Warner.
The Rada compound was so successful that it not only attracted the suspicion by the authorities, but also the envy of other religious organisations. As such, it was raided by Catholic priests, who took away religious objects, drums and costumes used in rituals. Dr. Bridget Brereton observes:
“The Rada were practicing the ancestral beliefs of their homeland. But to the authorities, there was no distinction between obeah practices for money and the Rada ceremonies. Any ‘African worship’ was automatically classified as obeah, and the practice of obeah had been made an offense by the 1868 Ordinance, punishable by jail and flogging.”
Papa Nannee himself was also arrested at age 86 and sentenced to six months and 36 lashes. He too appealed. Represented by the distinguished Q.C. Vincent Brown, he was acquitted. To the Creoles, African practices, religious or otherwise, were barbaric and obscene, in fact dangerous. To the Europeans, it was objectionable and alien. For the coloureds, it was a little too close for comfort, hanging on as best they could to respectability and in perpetual pursuit of acceptance in white circles. They liked to put a great distance between themselves and obeah!
Notwithstanding, in time of trouble, in fear of the death of loved ones, or in desperate need, the coloured middle class often found their way back to their African roots. Sometimes a black relative of their own, or a friend of the family, had access to people of power, invoking the old deities and bringing comfort to the African aspect of the soul of the coloured people. 



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