Showing posts with label Dragon's Mouth. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dragon's Mouth. Show all posts

Wednesday, 8 February 2012

Lopinot and the Haitian Revolution


There are few occasions in a person's lifetime that possess a sense-alteration to the degree of conveying the impression of being outside of the events taking place. The cusp of epochs; a common version may be the death of a parent or the collapse of a career.

To better grasp the scale of the Haitian Revolution, the events can only be perceived via such terms as Holocaust, mass murder, the liberation of a people, the birth of a nation, genocide, and even these, muttered out of context, lose their importance. Seeing is believing.
She was undoubtedly a woman of great strength of character and personal courage, exceptionally brave or perhaps simply possessed by the incipient stupidity that overbreeding sometimes brings to the upper classes.
She was completely aware of the whole scale destruction and mass murders being undertaken by the slaves. On the plantation La Resource she was not alone. The house slaves, still faithful to the memory of her parents, hovered breathlessly on the borders of their serfdom. She herself had but one clear intention, that was, to save the life of Charles Joseph Count Loppinot de la Fresillière, who had come into her pallid life two years before.
She was a Creole of this island and had known only the odour of the negroes, the aroma of burnt cane, the smell of molasses, of sawdust and of perfumes imported from abroad and as such, had lost their delicacy in the furnace holds of ships becalmed in the wide Sargasso Sea.
She knew well the fragrance of exotic tropical blooms carried on a warm wind when one sat dozing in the side gallery, the slave girl in spotless white, fanning her bare feet. She had been unprepared for the fresh crispness of his appearance, the originality of his clothing, and a sense about him that she could only compare to freshly baked bread or if you could imagine the smell of sunshine.
All her life, she had a highly developed olfactory faculty. They were never  lovers. He had arrived on the island aboard a 78 gun ship of the line in the company of the exalted. After having lived in Louisiana as an officer in the militia, he was now at St. Domingue where he was appointed Lieutenant de Roi par interim at Port au Prince. He became Major Commandante pour Roi at Jerome in 1784 and Commandante particulier at Port au Prince in 1787.
He occupied large estates in the colony. He married Catherine Fabre d'Auray by whom he had four sons. He was her neighbour. From the hilltop upon which her mansion had been built, she could see the burning cane fields. Macaque, her father's valet, so named in a moment of levity in what now seemed to be a thousand years ago, approached her with much gentility, smiled through his chattering teeth and told her in courtly French that the wagon was prepared and that the Monsieur had consented to enter the hogshead that had been provided for their escape and that he had requested her to join him. This she declined in as much as she had already decided to die in the house her father had built, overlooking the deep bay at Moucound.
Six of her strongest houseboys rolled the heavy oaken barrel in which the Count, wrapped in blankets against the inevitable collisions lay in hiding. This was heaved onto the waiting oxcart. Later they would roll it on to a careened longboat leaning on the waters edge in the bay. This in turn would be hauled aboard the British frigate "Arethusa" that would eventually take him and his family, also hidden in rum barrels, to Jamaica and safety. He would, however, return with the British expedition.
That evening, with her delicate profile turned slightly windward, she could smell them coming long before she heard them in the bottom of the garden near to the fountain dedicated to the Three Graces, built by her father in the year that she was born.
Five years later, between the execution of Louis XVI on the 21st of January 1793 and that of Marie Antoinette on the 16th October, at the promting of Loppinot himself, the future Louis XVIII - the Dauphin Louis XVII still being alive - then Compte de Provence, conferred on Loppinot the powers of Governor General of St. Domingue and Commissioner of all the Windward and Leeward Islands of America by a commission signed in Hamm in Westphalia on the 24th August 1793. This was to commence when "... His Majesty would only be able to decide further useful directions on the restoration of the monarchy, only then would he send his orders."
In as much as his lands had been lost in St. Domingue and in return for his service with the British expedition, the Secretary of State decided that a suitable grant of land would be made to him in Trinidad.
Col. Thomas Picton was a large, red-faced Welshman who drank more than he should and kept a notoriously common woman of an indeterminable racial background as a mistress. He tended to run the colony in much the same manner as he did his regiment. He was sitting in a warm rummy vapour which emanated from his person, when the Count was announced by the German sentry belonging to the 3rd Hompesch's regiment of German "Jägers" left behind so as to maintain order in the freshly captured island.
Picton could not stand the idea of meeting and dealing with yet another overly brought up, dandified ex-courtier of a now extinct kingdom. Frenchies made him sick. With elaborate resignation he listened as the Count Loppinot went through lengthy formalities, finally arriving at the point: land. Sorry, Picton had not heard a word from the Secretary of State and as such had no authority to make a grant. Undeterred, the Count borrowed money on mortgage. He attempted to utilise his slaves by purchasing a half share in a sugar estate at Tacarigua. But the depressed sugar market at the time, so different from the prosperous revolutionary days in St. Domingue, resulted in heavy losses for him.
In Trinidad, his rank and military experience earned Loppinot the confidence of the military governors of the island who succeeded Col. Picton. Brigadier General Thomas Hislop appointed him a brigadier-general in the militia. It was during the latter's governorship that the Count again applied for a grant of land in a mountain valley above Tacarigua. This time he was successful, and the area of his cocoa plantation is still bearing his name to date.
Under Hislop's successor, Major-General W. Monroe, during a period when the wars for the liberation of South America was being conducted by a young mestizo revolutionary called Simon Bolivar, Loppinot was sent with troops to flush out a revolutionary cell that had been built up under the aegis of one Geraldine Carry on Carry's island in the Dragon's Mouth, Chacachacare.
The insurgents, comprised mainly of members of the local Masonic Lodge, had already left for Guiria on the mainland. Taking the town, they were successful in the recommencing of the revolution, which had petered out. They were later known as the "Immortal 45" and were with Bolivar at the capture of Caracas.
Sir Ralph Woodford, the island's first civil governor who succeeded Munro in 1813, dismissed the old Council of Advice of previous administrators and appointed a new Council of Three, one of whom was the Count.
In 1814, the year after Woodford's arrival, the news of the fall of Napoleon came. The Count lost no time in suggesting means of winning back St. Domingue. In elaborate terms he addressed the Comte d'Artois. He commenced:
"Monsignor, we have heard the most memorable, the most happy and the most cheering event for the spirit of Frenchmen. The monstrous idol, that fantasy of ambition and error raised up is finally cast down to leave only the bitter memory of the most painful screams..."
He was reminding the Comte d'Artois of his position and rank and proposed a commission for himself as Governor General, not in name but in fact. He wrote dozens of letters outlining various schemes and plans to retake St. Domingue, now Haiti. They all came to nothing. The most wealthy, the most splendid, the most fantastic colony France had ever possessed was now on the road to its own destiny. The last of the house of Bourbon to sit upon the throne of France were reactionary relics of the ancient regime, best remembered by the saying that they learned nothing and forgot nothing. In his closing of one of his last letters to the king a disappointed Loppinot writes:
"Since the happy events which restored His Majesty to the throne, I have not received a single instruction..."
Loppinot lived out his last years in his mountain retreat as one of the most respected and prominent inhabitants of the British colony of Trinidad. When he died in 1817, he was buried on his estate, as were his wife and a son. Well beloved by his slaves, there was never a hanging in Loppinot. The family and title exist to this day in France.

Tuesday, 22 November 2011

Pirates


The islands in the Dragon’s Mouth can assume a magical character, both in magnificent sunsets, as gold goes to purple with Biblical splendour, and also in sublime morning light, when the horizon is lost in the seascape, and they appear to float upon a prehistoric mist.
The topes of mountains now lost, they are stepping stones to the South American continent to which Trinidad was once joined. Christopher Columbus, Admiral of the Ocean Sea, almost crashed his tiny fleet into them some 500 years ago. Escaping, he named the passage for the dragon of the alchemists.
Sir Walter Raleigh, dreaming of his virgin queen Elisabeth I, thought he saw gold glistening in their towering cliffs. Disappointed, he coined the phrase: “All that glitters is not gold.”
The Admiral Lord Nelson sailed a battle-ready fleet through the islands of the Dragon’s Mouth in search of a French Admiral and, missing him, reversed himself, crossed the Atlantic to find and defeat him at Trafalgar. In so doing, Nelson changed the course of history. France in losing her fleet, in effect lost the war at sea, and this enabled Great Britain to rule the waves. One cannot help but wonder that if Nelson had found the French in the Gulf of Paria, and had the French destroyed the British in the swirling currents of the remous, would we be like Martinique and Guadeloupe today, la Trinité?
But our tale concerns itself not with such bona fide travellers such as adventurers, discoverers and admirals, but with pirates. Robert Chase, an authority on pirates, remarks in his book “The Age of Piracy”:
“The tapestry of the record of piracy is old and worn. Many of the threads that were the lives of the men who made it are lost, others are brilliant, some parts gleam, showing in sharp relief the great figures of their times.”
Both Trinidad and Tobago were a part of the age of piracy. Edward Teach, a.k.a. “Blackbeard”, raided both the coasts and the shipping of these islands. Sir Henry Morgan sailed these waters, as did Anne Bonny and her friend Mary Read. Both were notorious lady pirates, as villainous and bloodthirsty as Captain Hook.
One island in the Dragon’s Mouth is remembered for its pirates’ history: Gaspar Grande, named for a French settler of the 1780s, Gaspar de Percin. A century before, Gaspar Grande was frequented by the pirates. Winn’s Bay on the south side of that island, named for Richard Winn, was previously called Corsair’s Bay. For the pirates, it was a haven.
“There was no chart yet that gave an accurate description of the area, no beacons or aids to navigation of any sort,” writes Robert Chase. “A man sailed carrying his knowledge of the Caribbean in his head. But the buccaneers took their “fri-botes” across it unerringly and in later days, towards the end of the 17th century, the 1670s, when they had accepted piracy as a way of life, they entered Spanish ports with superb skill.”
Perhaps a million years ago, when Gasparee was a part of the mainland, a great river may have coursed through it. Fr. Anthony de Verteuil records in his book “Scientific Sorties”:
“The remnant of an underground river exists at Point Baleine. The entrance is through a karst window at the head of Pt. Baleine inlet and stretches across almost the whole width of the island.
This channel splits off into three smaller ones, some leading, it is thought, to large sinkholes or caverns deep within the bowels of the island. A perfect place to hide a treasure!
“Sixteen men on a dead man’s chest, yo ho ho and a bottle or rum!” goes an old song. Was a treasure buried in one of those tunnels that led to an as yet undiscovered cave, leading off from Corsair’s (Winn’s) Bay? Dead men tell no tales. All sixteen of them that filled the hole on top of a great iron box of gold. Pirate stories are always fabulous!
Anne Bonney was a long-legged, red-haired beauty from County Cork in Ireland. She travelled out to South Carolina to meet her father, a retired doctor. It is said that she was always a little quick-tempered. While in her teens, s he is alleged to have stabbed her English maid to death. In any event, she left her family and fell in with a captain named Calico Jack Rockham, who was famous for his good looks and gorgeous physique, if not his bravery. He possessed wild stories of piratical adventures, and Anne set sail with him and his murderous band aboard his ship “The Duke”, combing the Caribbean in search of Spanish treasure ships.
They sailed south, skirting Trinidad’s eastern coastline, but did not put in for fear of cannibals. The Duke’s logbook for September 25 states that they crossed the tropic of Cancer. Rockham wrote:
“This day, according to custom, we ducked those that had never passed the tropic before.” They simply tied them with a line and tossed them into the shark-infested waters! They sailed to Cape Horn, the very tip of the southern hemisphere, in freezing weather, and then north up the coast of Peru to raid Spanish towns and shipping. They gathered a fortune in gold, and the following year returned to the “Horn”, the Duke’s decks awash, ploughing through monster waves.
As they beat their way into the South Atlantic, Anne discovered that she was pregnant. It was a long, rough journey up the Brazilian coast to the islands of the Caribbean. Anne had her baby in Cuba, where Rockham had friends. She lived there for a while, then left the young one with them and rejoined the crew of the Duke. She found another woman, Mary Read, aboard, and the two became great friends. Mary was more on the burly side than Anne. She had concealed her sex and served as a soldier in an infantry regiment. both women wore loose cotton jumpers and bell-bottomed sailor trousers, carried a cutlass and a brace of pistols.
They sailed south and careened the Duke in Pirates’ Bay, a cave in Man-o-War Bay in Tobago. There they were surprised by H.M.S. Randolph. Captain Rockham and some of his crew tried to flee in a sloop as the Randolph's landing party came ashore, muskets blazing. Anne Bonney and Mary Read fought side by side without help until they were overpowered. This was remembered when they arrived in Jamaica in chains. Both women escaped hanging because they were pregnant!
Anne was allowed to see Rockham hanged. She said: “Had he fought like a man, he need not be hanged like a dog.” Anne ended her days a wealthy woman in St. Iago de la Vega. Mary sailed the Caribbean as a pirate queen for some years, settling eventually in Scarborough, Tobago.
The “Jolly Roger”, the skull and crossbones, that is well known as the pirate’s flag, was once the battle flag for the Knights Templar in the 12th century. Trinidadians still have to find the treasure that is buried in an undiscovered cave on Gasparee island - if there is any at all!