When
hundreds of wild cows roamed Caripichaima
The
different estates and objects of interest on the line between Port of Spain and
St. Joseph junction have already been enumerated in the previous chapter
(published in last month's digest). It will therefore be necessary to take up
the journey only from the point where the line branches off, viz., at the
signal box between St. Joseph and Tunapuna. Here, you will turn sharply round
in a southerly direction, leaving St. Augustine estate works on your left and
passing through the estate. After crossing the iron bridge over the Caroni, you
reach the station, which is named, like the district, after the river. To the
right are the hospital and factory
Frederick estate (Mr. Gregor Turnbull). On the public road to the west
of Frederick is another substantial iron bridge spanning the river. The road
from the back of the station leads to St. Clair estate (Mr. Zurcher), Mon
Jaloux (Mr. Q. Kelly), and several cacao estates along the bank of the river. Beyond
these is St. Helena estate (Messrs. G. Turnbull & Co.), where is the very
fine new iron bridge alluded to in the former chapter as being on the road from
Golden Grove. Still farther is an Indian settlement, with several more cacao
estates, the principal being those of Mr. Centeno.
It
was originally proposed to extend the railway system to Cumuto. Three and a
half miles of embankment were thrown up, bridges constructed, and a mile and a
quarter of rails laid down at a cost of £5,000, when the work was abandoned, I
believe by order of the then Secretary of State. The first station would have
been St. Helena, and from Cumuto in all probability the line would have eventually
reached Mayaro.
Parties
bent on alligator shooting frequently have their boat sent from town up the Caroni
to meet them here or at the adjacent estate of Mc Leod Pain. Still better
sport, however, is to be obtained at a small lake about two miles inland, known
as the Bejucal. Here alligators, wild birds, and the queer armour-coated
cascadoura positively swarm.
Following
the rail again from Caroni station on the right is Wilderness estate (Mr. J.W.
Warren); Mr. F. Zurcher's Mon Plaisir faces the Cunupia station. This part of
the country is becoming famous for the cultivation of tobacco and limes by Mr.
C. Fabien, who has been successful both with regard to the growth and the
manufacture of the fragrant weed. Apropos of tobacco, His Excellency has just
published a smart little brochure advocating the growing of this plant, and
certainly the recent experiments have clearly shown that there is no earthly
reason why we must either pay an exorbitant price for the Havana article, or else
as an alternative have badly made up cabbage-leaf foisted upon us. Mr. Fabien's
best cigars at the recent exhibition were of very good quality. Mr. Anderson,
who has had some experience in that line, is also going in for the cultivation
and manufacture of tobacco and cigars.
Leaving
Cunupia station, Reform estate (Messrs. Coryat and E. Cipriani) is the next
estate on the right, and beyond it Léonice (Mr. Cornilliac). I omitted to state
the rather interesting fact that the site of the little Anglican Chapel at
Cunupia was given by a wealthy heathen Indian living in the quarter.
St.
Charles, a small estate belonging to Mr. C. Smith, is on the right near
Chaguanas, while beyond it on the left is Endeavour (Mr. René de Verteuil).
Opposite the latter is Woodford Lodge, the property of the Hon. G. Fitt and Mr.
S. Henderson. The oscillated centrifugal sugar system, adopted first on Messrs.
Tennant's estate, Inverness, has been improved upon here, with highly
satisfactory results. The soil of Chaguanas, especially in the vicinity of the
sea, is of the description commonly known as "crab-land", from the innumerable
holes in the surface made by the land crabs.
Chaguanas
has generally the reputation of being a dreary kill-joy sort of place,
suggestive of muddy roads and legions of mosquitoes and sand flies. So it may
be, but the forests and high woods are full of hidden treasures that the keen
and vigilant eye of the naturalist will spy out and gloat over. The Noel
Baptist Chapel in McDonald valley of this district is interesting as having been
built partly by subscriptions of the neighbouring planters, but mainly by
contributions form the Sunday School Children of John Street Church, Bedford
Row, London.
You
cross the Chaguanas Road immediately before entering the station. To the east
lies the Montrose cacao estate (Hon. G. Fitt), and Mr. Latour's sugar estate, Edinburgh.
Beyond these is the convict depot. To the west lies Perseverance (Messrs. T.
Daniell & Sons), and Chaguanas village with its Roman Catholic and Anglican
churches. A new church is being built for the former denomination quite close
to the line. Beyond the village are Trafalgar (Messrs. Cadet and Ambard), Petersfield
(Mr. Burgos), Adela (Mr. J. Coryat), and near the bay Messrs. Daniell's large
estate Felicité. The proprietors of the last named generously gave a site for a
new Wesleyan Chapel, erected in 1878.
Taking
up the route again from the railway, you pass through unopened lands, the huge
trees, with their burden of parasites, not having yet succumbed to the
woodman's ax. When nearing Carapichaima, on the right you catch a glimpse of
the fine Waterloo works (Mr. J. Cumming), furnished with the Brush Electric
Light. Opposite these is a road leading to the village and to Orange Field (Mr.
L. Preau).
From
Carapichaima, Mr. Cumming, who is the largest resident proprietor in the
island, and one of the most liberally disposed, owns a series of estates,
extending a distance of fully seven miles. A part of his property is as yet
uncultivated, and is to all appearance high woods, but it is tenanted by a herd
of wild oxen. Some twelve or fourteen years ago, about fifteen head of cattle
escaped from Felicité estate, Chaguanas, and took to the woods. There must be
now not less than two hundred of them, and noble beasts some of them are!
Occasionally, sportsmen and hunters come across a drove them, when they
immediately do a stampede.
Passing
another of Mr. Cumming's estate, Exchange, on the right, and crossing the road,
we enter the Couva station. Here in a cluster are the post office, warden's and
savings bank offices, Roman Catholic church and school, and police station. The
last is a creditable building of concrete, containing also the magistrate's
court. Couva is a fast-growing flourishing district, comprising four
villages—Exchange, California, Spring and Freeport. The eastern direction of
the road lately crossed leads to the new Presbyterian church and school now in
course of erection, near which is an excellent manse; the site for all these
have been generously given by Mr. Cumming from the lands of Camden estate; then
Spring village, Spring and Caracas estates (Mr. J. Henderson), and finally Montserrat. It is proposed
to lay a tramway between Couva station and the junction of the two roads to
Gran Couva and Mayo. This is very much needed, as it will open up the way to
what is practically an unknown region to a great many even of the residents in
Trinidad.
But
the train has started again; rolling over the muddy Couva river by the longest
iron bridge in the island, you see on the right the fine works of Brechin
Castle estate (Mr. G. Turnbull) in the Savonetta part of Couva
(Savonetta—little savanna). These were the first vacuum pans worked erected in
Trinidad, and the fine crystals made here took the first prize at the local
exhibition in February this year (1886). On the left is Sevilla, worked in
connection with Brechin Castle. the first building is the estate hospital; a
little further, on the rising ground, is the residence of Mr. John S. Wilson,
planting attorney of Messrs. Turnbull, Stewart & Co. There is a telephonic
communication between Brechin castle and Sevilla, and from the former to the
shipping place. Behind Sevilla, in the direction of Montserrat, are Milton
estate (Messrs. C. Tennant, Son & Co.) and Rivulet (Mr. G. Turnbull).
Leaving
California station, on the left is the residence of Mr. Bernard Kenny, a genial
son of Erin, who has charge of Mr.
W. F. Burnley's Couva estates, Esperanza, Phœnix Park and Providence. Phœnix
Park is easily recognisable by the avenue of coco palms on the left. On the
opposite side are Providence works and about a quarter of a mile beyond the
distillery.
Nearing
Claxton's bay village and school, you cross the road just before entering the
station. The eastern direction of this road leads through the village and on to
the four estates of Mr. Abel Devenish—Mount Pleasant, Forest Park, cedar Hill and
Diamond, in the direction of Montserrat.
The
westerly direction of this same road brings one almost immediately to the Gulf,
and to the jetty, 1,300 feet in length and ten feet in breadth. This is now the
property of the Mr. Devenish just mentioned, and was built in 1871 by his
uncle, Mr. Le Roy, at a cost of nearly £2,000. It stands on cast iron screw
piles, with runners and decking of balata, one of our most durable native
woods. Being connected with the estates by a tram line, Mr. Devenish thus
avoids much of the expense of carting, the sugar being conveyed to the extreme
end of the jetty, where the lighters lie alongside to receive it.
Claxton's
bay railway station is grimy-looking, like all the rest of them for want of
clean new paint, but the collector, all honour to him, does his best to improve
it by planting creepers, and attaching orchids to the woodwork. I have not the
pleasure of his acquaintance, but I feel convinced he must be a good man. Would
it be a liberty to suggest to the authorities that this horticulturist should
be removed to each station in turn along the line, say for six months at a
spell, so that he may continue the work of reformation at each, and show what
nature can do when she is helped a little?
Leaving
Claxton's bay, you approach Plaisance estate (Messrs. C. Tennant) on the left.
Here is one of the most interesting curiosities in the island, the thermal
spring, or rather springs, for there are at least two distinct ones. A bath
house has been put up, covering two good-sized concrete baths. The clear spring
water, apparently like other water till you become cogniscant of its warmth,
flows directly into the baths from the hillside, in just such a stream as might
be poured from a bucket. The temperature of the water is from 100º to 105º
Fahrenheit. On the occasion of my visit, by the courtesy of the manager, I was
allowed to take a bath, which I found particularly pleasant an soothing, after
the first strangeness of the unusual warmth had subsided. It is curious that hi
water cools more rapidly than ordinary water would if heated artificially to
the same pitch.
Rolling
over the viaduct, near which is the government school, you see Pointe-à-Pierre
R.C. church on the hill, commanding a fine view. The building, a wooden one, is
of good size; over the altar are two large figures of St. Peter and St. Joseph.
The Pointe-à-Pierre railway station is the merest apology for anything of the
kind that I ever saw. Near it is Mr. Le Gay Johnstone's Plein Palais estate.
The cutting a quarter of a mile long through the Pointe-à-Pierre hill was one of
the chief engineering difficulties in the construction of the line, owing to the
tendency to landslips.
At
Marabella junction, passengers going towards Princes Town change to the
Guaracara railway, which here branches off. As our destination is San Fernando,
we keep our seats, and crossing the Guaracara we have a good view of the Gulf
on the right and Marabella works (Mr. A.P Marryat) opposite on the eminence.
The pasture, with its trees dotted about, strike one as resembling an English orchard.
You will see plenty of pelicans flying busily about the Gulf, sometimes
suddenly swooping down straight as an arrow for the unwary fish they have
spotted during their flight. The white egrets, too, look very pretty wading
through the shallow water, or stalking along the muddy banks. Passing and abandoned
estate, Vista Bella (Mrs. J. Lambie), and skirting the Naparima Hill, you come
to San Fernando.
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